We started our overland trek, encircling the Torres. Our packs were still overflowing with food. After descending for an hour, we turned off to a much quieter trail. We walked through the area where a friend had seen a puma. The only wildlife we saw (besides many types of birds) was a massive bull sauntering along the trail.
The hike was unique and low lying, but on this section it was covered in animal crap. I swear you could have hopped from horse and cow paddies the whole way. It was raining and the views of surrounding peaks were obscured. We were happy but slowly were worn down by weather and walking.
After a few more hours hiking beside a large river, we arrived at the refugio and were surprised we needed to pay. The refugio site was no different than the kilometers surrounding us. We noticed the quality gear and intense look of those around us; then realized we had a lot of good gear ourselves.
We settled into different tents, I believe it was our last night to do so. I was so cold during the night that I literally hid inside my sleeping bag. If I brought my face out it was assaulted by the cold.
Day 4:
We had our earliest start so far, around 10:00 p.m we were out of camp. We had 19 km to hike over the day. I was blissfully free of injury at this point.
The trail carried us up and along a side of a mountain while looking over a river and lake. It was a rough start but the views quickly became spectacular. After the first main uphill it was only distance to cover.
After being frustrated with paying for nothing, we decided to poach camping. But \we chickened out and mumbled about environmental ethics as we headed to the relative comfort of the refugio camping grounds.
These grounds, while offering little for amenities, had an incredible location. It was on a point with a black rock beach. I had wanted to swim but we could see glacier feeding water into the lake.
Gauchos (cowboys) came in late to the refugio, cracking wipes at their burdened horses. Jackson bought eggs that they had carried in. I resisted from buying cigarettes.
Day 5:
For breakfast, we had eggs, avocado and fried potatoes and onions.
We started a trek around a valley and our packs were starting to lighten. At this point, my knee was aching with each step and I had begun to limp. Jackson started to move faster than I did and I started to take Advil. We ate lunch by a waterfall and moved along a relatively flat trail.
By the time we were ready to camp, we had arrived at a small lake with a glacier hanging over it. The glacier had pushed a wall of rocks, creating an area for the lake and then receded. We did poach camping this time, by a river bed hidden from the trail. It was the best camping of the trip. It started to snow early and we consistently heard the glacier break and fall into the water.
We heard the gauchos on the trail above us but were well hidden until the morning. As I mentioned, Jackson and I were in the same tent and laughed for 3 hours before the light went down.
Day 6:
My knee continued to worsen as we began our most extreme day of the hike. We moved upwards all morning, moving from the river, through trees and then above the tree line until we were scrambling over rock.
We saw snow ahead of us and stopped to eat pasta with makeshift pesto. It was a very good idea. It was the last dry ground for hours.
We started walking through a least a meter of snow, though our shoes rarely sank through. We had joined up with a French trekker named Lucas. We were faster than him but we learned he covered consistently twice what we would in a day. Slow and steady.
We walked along the snow with a steep elevation for another hour and a half. It wasn’t as physically tiring as I would have thought. I just couldn’t believe we were still going up.
We were surrounded by snow in all directions as more fell from above.
At the peak of the trail, we gained a few to glacier Grey. I don’t know the dimensions, but it was kilometers across and 10s of kilometers long. The glacier was in the valley of mountains, leading out to a new lake. A redeeming and rewarding sight. My camera died after one picture.
The descent was what really did my knee in. It was a brutal muddy trail steeper than what we had climbed. We hopped and criss-crossed down the mountain.
We found free (legitimate) camping. We cooked up vegetables for our pasta sauce. At this point we noticed that Lucas and the other hikers around us were eating very simple meals. For Lucas, instant chicken soup.
Though the day was incredible, my body was very beat up. I had a hip so raw it had been bleeding, the blisters on my feet very painful and quickly infected. My knee made it difficult to sleep.
Day 7:
I fixed myself up in the morning but neither of us wanted to move. We were set on a lay day but ended up leaving camp at 2:00 p.m. The hike was all downhill and Jackson motored ahead of me. It seemed I was chasing a ghost. All I could was see his blue shirt ahead but he’d wait up just long enough for me to catch a glimpse.
We were hiking along the length of the glacier along the mainland. I had frustrating moments and was in a lot of pain. We settled around 7:00 p.m. but decided to keep pushing on a bit farther.
We had decided to leave the park in time for New Years, meaning we’d need to hike at least 8 hours before 6:00 p.m. the next day.
We poached camping along the lake and again it was breathtaking. Mountains and a waterfall were behind us. A glacier, lake and more mountains to our front.
Day 8: Dec 31st
I lead and we motored along the trail, motivated in the morning. We completed the first half of our hike before lunch and contemplated this choice:
#1) Take a 30 min ferry for $11,000 pesos ($22). Catch a bus at 2:00 p.m.
#2) Hike 17 km more. Catch a 6:30 p.m.
I took the easy way out and saved my knee from more distance. Jackson took option #2 and gave me a very distinct wave as he headed off on the trail.
I slept and relaxed in the afternoon as Jackson hiked more. After he collapsed into the hostel room, we went to a restaurant for sea food. We met a lively Argentinean/French couple to party in the New Year with.
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